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Back before I knew much about COVID, I applied for an overnight permit for The Enchantments hike in Washington State. After lockdown began, I found out I won the golden ticket – an overnight permit lottery win for 2 to the Core Enchantments – one of the most coveted wilderness permits out there.

Before I go too much further, this hike is incredibly difficult and if you are considering it, please be prepared, both physically and mentally as it was certainly challenging for me – an avid hiker. If you want to see more of the beauty of the Pacific Northwest with a little less intensity, check out this post on the best hikes near Seattle.

The permit season for this hike is mid-May through mid-October. Outside of these times, you technically could camp without a special overnight permit. However, the road closes due to snow and you should be well versed in hiking in the snow and using a snow axe.

Now interestingly, due to COVID this year, the trail was initially shut down for part of the season. When it opened back up, I was relieved to know I would be able to use my permit.

However, then the fires started.

Not only would I not want to hike near a fire for safety reasons, I also wouldn’t want to breathe smoke for 20 miles or not be able to see the scenery. Luckily the last week before my permit date, things started to clear up.

Then came the weather reports.

It looked like 70% chance of rain and highs in the upper 30s in the core. Lovely. We thought about bailing again. The trip reports on both AllTrails and the Washington Trails Association were pretty dismal. Freezing rain, sleet and borderline hypothermia. One person jokingly said they were “reporting from the grave”.

Regardless, we decided to go for it considering the luck of the permits – so here is the recap of The Enchantments hike that we completed September 26-27, 2020.

The Enchantments Hike – Preparation

When preparing to overnight the Enchantments hike, my first discovery is that there were varying reports on the length of the trail. AllTrails reported 23.6 miles and Washington Trail Association reported 18 miles. This is a pretty big discrepancy. As this is a thru-hike and not a loop or out and back. we weren’t going to be able to use a halfway point as guidance either. In the end my Garmin recorded 20.23 miles.

The Enchantments thru-hike is typically done from the Stuart Lake trailhead and ending at the Snow Lake trailhead, because it reduces the total elevation gain by 2,600 feet relative to going the opposite direction (although it still takes in the climb up Aasgard Pass, which rises 1,900 feet in less than a mile). For reference, I usually classify hikes as “hard” when the elevation gain is 1000 ft/mile – so the Aasgard Pass section is no joke. The total elevation gain in this direction is about 6000 ft and the total decline is about 7800 ft – making it decently hard on the legs.

Additionally as this is a thru-hike you need to prepare ahead of time for getting back to your car afterward. You have three options:

1. Serve as your own shuttle by having two cars and parking one at each trailhead.
2. Hitchhike from one trailhead to the other.
3. Hire a shuttle. This is what we went with and here is the company that we used.

The Enchantments Hike – Packing List

Despite this being an overnight, we decided to opt for lightweight and our packs ended up being less than 25 pounds each including water. However, we only ever carried 1-1.5 L at a time as there was plenty of water available to filter. Here is what we packed for backpacking the Enchantments:

• Backpacks
• Rain covers
• Headlamps
• Wool Clothing Layers
• Packable jacket
• Shell jacket
• Extra Socks
• Hats
• Gloves
• Sunglasses
• Backpacking Tent
• Sleeping bags/liners
• Inflatable pillows
• Jet boil Mini Mo
• Jet boil fuel
• Hot chocolate/apple cider
• Mountain House meals x 3
• Snacks
• Sporks
• One plastic mug
• Camera
• First Aid Kit
• Water bladders
• 2 paper towels
• 3 baby wipes
• 2 mosquito wipes
• Kula Cloth
• Water Filter

In hindsight, I wish I would have brought my Microspikes, but I think we caught some of the first snow that stuck as no trip reports mentioned snow or wanting/needing Microspikes. I would have also brought more waterproof gloves as I was often using my hands to scramble and my gloves ended up pretty wet. Also in hindsight, I wish I would not have brought my camera as it was so cold in the Core I was unable to get it out of my bag. But you know what they say, hindsight is 2020 – kind of like this year.

Backpacking The Enchantments: The Trip Report

Logistics in Seattle, WA

Many of you might know, but we are limited to weekends for adventures due to Austin’s surgery residency. So while this hike would definitely be more enjoyable as a multi-overnight trip without any pending flights to catch, of course we had to keep it interesting.

And in fact, the trip started off interesting right away. Our flight was delayed about 45 minutes, which would be no big deal except that we were cutting it close with getting our checked bag (tent poles need to be checked, as well as hiking poles which we did not bring, but just for reference) and our rental car and making it to REI before they closed. Why did we need to get to REI? Jet Boil Fuel.

Jet Boil Fuel, or fuel in general, is not something that can go on a plane, carry on or checked. So this is something to think about in advance if you are planning to have warm food. (No campfires are allowed above 5000 ft – so 95% of the hike).

And we made it to REI in time only to find that they were out of fuel, and so was Dick’s Sporting Goods, and Walmart. Fortunately the fourth place we visited – Sportsman’s Warehouse had a supply so we were able to get fuel. Despite the challenges of obtaining the fuel, I am SO GRATEFUL for the Jet Boil, Jet Boil fuel, and ultimately the warm food and drinks we had on this hike.

Driving to Leavenworth, WA

After securing the fuel, and grabbing a late dinner, we made the 2.5 hour drive to Leavenworth, WA. The road to Leavenworth is mostly two-lane and incredibly winding. Probably not the best option in the dark. In fact at one point, we came way too close to the most massive elk I have ever seen. Dude had AT LEAST 30 points. So be safe on your drive.

The Snow Lakes Trailhead is about 10-15 minutes from Leavenworth, with the Stuart Lake/Colchuck Lake being another 20-30 minutes beyond. We stayed the night in Leavenworth which is an adorable Bavarian town in the Hampton Inn and headed to the trailhead in the morning to catch the shuttle. However for a more unique experience, check out these glamping spots in Washington, which features an option to stay in a cave in Leavenworth.

Shuttle to the Trailhead

Because we had no intentions of thru-hiking the Enchantments in one day, we decided to take a “later” shuttle that departed the Snow Lakes Trailhead at 7am and got us to the Stuart Lake/Colchuck Lake Trailhead around 7:30.

It’s interesting to note that 4 additional people were supposed to take the same shuttle but they did not show up (or maybe they came late). The shuttle driver asked if we minded waiting a few extra minutes and we actually departed around 7:03 am. In summary – don’t be late for your shuttle, they might not wait on you.

The Enchantments Hike

We started off the hike quickly and you get some serious Pacific Northwest vibes in the first few miles before reaching Colchuck Lake. However this section is still pretty steep, although not as steep as the pass later. Seeing Colchuck Lake for the first time was one of my favorite parts of the hike. It felt like there was no way that this beautiful lake could be in the United States, let alone in the contiguous 48.

Aasgard Pass

Once arriving at Colchuck and taking a quick snack break while enjoying the views, we proceeded through the boulder field to the beginning of the Aasgard Pass. We were both a little nervous about Aasgard Pass, Austin because of the steep elevation and me because of the possibility of scree. However, I actually thought this section was easier than I anticipated, although it was still difficult. The scree was limited and it was more like small boulders. You really had to just put one foot in front of the other most of the way up with only a little scrambling right at the end of the pass.

On the Aasgard Pass was the first time that I have had to dodge a boulder from a small rockslide. As we were about halfway up someone ahead yelled “ROCK” and it literally came straight for me. I quickly looked left and right for escape routes and then dodged when it made its last bounce before me. Definitely keeping it interesting.

The weather started to turn as we were about 3/4 of the way up Aasgard Pass. Initially it was just a dusting of snow on the ground. This turned into small snowflakes which turned into bigger snowflakes and quite a bit of wind. The wind howling over the pointy mountains sounded worse than it was, but at one point Austin yelled back “It’s Saruman” like the scene from Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring.

Continuing up the pass there was a bit of scrambling right towards the end and I did slip a bit on the ice. There were quite a few icy sections and I certainly couldn’t imagine coming down this section.

Once we made it up Aasgard Pass we were excited to have made it up most of the elevation and for the next 15-20 minutes we had the best weather that we experienced in the Core Enchantments. It was probably mid-20s with wind chill. This made it virtually impossible for me to get out my camera.

Relax in the Isolation Lake

Isolation Lake is a well-kept secret in the Enchantments region of Washington State.

This serene alpine lake is a hiker’s paradise, offering a pristine and isolated wilderness experience.

To access this beautiful destination, you will have to begin your journey from the Stuart Lake trailhead.

The trail meanders through lush forests, ascending rocky terrain, and offering stunning views along the way, making it a great spot to stop for some snacks while you are soaking up the beauty.

Eventually, you’ll reach Isolation Lake, a remote body of water that’s surrounded by rugged peaks and gorgeous meadows.

Moreover, the beauty of Isolation Lake lies in its peaceful seclusion, making it a must-visit for those hiking the Enchantments.

The best time to experience Isolation Lake at its finest is during the late summer and early fall.

Core Enchantments

After less than a half an hour in the Core, it began to snow. I was grateful for my sunglasses in this section as it kept the swirling snow from hitting my eyes. Fortunately we were able to find a spot of shelter and had our first Jet Boil meal for lunch and apple cider to drink.

While eating lunch we discussed our plans. When you get the coveted Core Enchantments overnight permit, you obviously want to spend the night in the Core – it’s the coolest area. However if you get a Core Enchantments permit, it actually gives you permission to camp in any of the zones. With the weather as intense as it was, we no longer thought that camping in the Core section was a good idea. We even threw out the possibility of thru-hiking in one day. Since we took the “later” shuttle and weren’t 100% sure of actual mileage we temporarily decided against this idea.

The Core would have been the perfect spot for Microspikes and I was a bit bummed that I didn’t bring them. Many people were scooting and “doing the crab” along sections of the trail. I mostly just stepped carefully (but slowly).

I did manage to get cell phone service in one small spot in the middle of the Core Enchantment Zone but no where else on the trail.

Leprechaun Lake to Snow Lake descent was pretty intense. There was lots of sloping, steep granite that required me to go pretty darn slowly. I imagine this might get worse as the weather continues.

Snow Zone

We ended up deciding to camp in the Snow Zone near Nada Lake after much back and forth. Nada Lake is significantly lower elevation and it wasn’t as cold as it could have been. Additionally, this allowed us to limit our day 2 hiking miles. We thought about going the entire way in one [long] day, but ultimately decided against it. The trail is less of a path and more boulders, rocks, and roots which would require extra care, especially in the dark, in order to remain safe.

Our tent was fantastic. Our sleeping pads (which I normally love and would recommend outside of cold-weather), did not have a high enough R value for the weather. The Jet Boil was AMAZING and totally worth the money spent.

Back to the Trail head

In the morning, we made it the last 6 miles of the trail in pretty record speed. However this last 6 miles only had ~100 ft of elevation gain and significant elevation loss.

One additional thing to note, is that there are “toilets” along The Enchantments hike. These were built as the mountain goats were getting aggressive and following hikers for the salt in their urine. However, don’t be misled by the idea of “toilets”, it’s actually just a box in the ground. There is no supplied toilet paper, and technically no privacy although they are pretty far off the trail. I was grateful for my Kula Cloth and baby wipes.

What is the Best Time of Year to Thru-Hike the Enchantments?

The optimal time for a thru-hike in the Enchantments varies based on your preferences and the kind of experience you want.

However, most hikers target the summer and early fall months, from July through September.

That’s because during this period, the snow has melted, revealing the stunning alpine meadows and pristine lakes that the area is known for.

Additionally, the weather is more predictable, and camping is more comfortable. July and August also offer warmer temperatures and an abundance of wildflowers, making this a popular time among hikers.

However, this also means heavier crowds and the need for permits, which can be challenging to secure due to high demand.

Alternatively, September is an excellent alternative because the weather is still pleasant, the crowds have thinned, and the fall foliage adds a unique charm and vibe to the landscape.

Just be prepared for cooler nights and the possibility of early snowfall.

Now, If you’re comfortable with snow travel and solitude, late spring can be a great option for you.

However, the trail may still be covered in snow, making it more challenging and necessary to have specialized gear.

The Enchantments Hike FAQs

How Long Does it Take to Hike the Enchantments?

Hiking the Enchantments typically takes between 8 and 15 hours. Some people may complete it in 8 hours with trail running, while others can take up to 15 hours to fully enjoy the lakes and scenery.

However, the median time to complete the trail is around 10 to 12 hours.

Is the Enchantments Hike Hard?

The Enchantments hike is definitely hard since it is an 18-mile point-to-point trail near Leavenworth, Washington.

In addition, the Enchantments hike is known as a highly challenging route and is recommended only for experienced adventurers.

What is the Best Part of the Enchantments Trail?

The best part of the Enchantments trail varies from person to person. But, in my opinion, the best part is Colchuck Lake since it is a really stunning place.

Can you Hike the Enchantments Without a Permit?

Unfortunately, both day and overnight visits necessitate permits.

Would we do it again?

Ok that’s a dumb question… ABSOLUTELY. Despite the weather and experiences this was an incredible hike. What would we do differently? As mentioned above, I would have brought Microspikes, different gloves, left my camera at home, and maybe taken an earlier shuttle to give us more flexibility – but overall it was a fabulous trip.

Have you done The Enchantments hike or is it on your bucket list? What did you think? Let me know in the comments.

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